Biochar 101

The actual process of biochar making takes about 20 minutesWhat does a farm intern do over the winter months to keep herself busy until the beginning of spring fun begins? Other than dream of crop rotation designs and new vegetables to try I also had the opportunity to attend an all day conference about biochar! Biochar is a very old concept that is only recently getting new attention for its carbon sequestering capabilities. The biochar story begins in Brazil when anthropologists discovered what they termed as “terra preta” or dark earth. When they tested the soil they found that it had very high levels of charcoal that had been buried thousands of years earlier. The impact of the charcoal made the soil more efficient in retaining water and nutrients and it can still be seen in the soil today.
    One major question I had going into this conference was what is the difference between charcoal and biochar? Hugh McLaughlin, a scientist at Alterna Biocarbon, answered that question for me. It was explained that charcoal is fuel that is used to cook and is made at around 300 degrees Celsius. Biochar on the other hand is a soil amendment and is made at 600 degrees Celsius. The key difference is the amount of mobile vs. resident matter. When you heat the biomass (woodchips, organic waste, manure, crop residues), to such a high temperature it becomes extremely stable and also creates a very porous structure. Good biochar should have high cation exchange capacity and absorption capacity – these are what make the biochar so beneficial to the soil. The main benefits of biochar are (1) improved moisture dynamic, (2) improved nutrient retention (N, P, K for example), (3) improved microbe survival during drought, and (4) improved plant – microbe synergisms. So, the idea is that biochar will keep carbon in the soil, rather than in the atmosphere, whilst simultaneously leading to improved soil health and larger crop yields.

Lighting the feedstock using rubbing alcohol and woodchips
    The process of making biochar involves collecting your biomass (referred to as feedstock) and lighting it on fire in a sealed container with very low oxygen conditions. Ideally the feedstock you use is coming from your farm or very near by, or else it kind of defeats the whole carbon saving notion. There are many different devices to make biochar – ranging from homemade “TLUD” (Top Lit Up Draft) Ovens, to much larger scale kilns and retorts. Click HERE for instructions on building yur own TLUD.  They did a biochar making demonstration at the conference using homemade TLUDs. There are also more and more companies that are selling biochar on the web. The most reputable companies mentioned at the conference (in which the biochar has been tested and approved) were Soil Reef, Encendia and Colorado Biochar. It was also emphasized that testing your biochar is really important before using it. Now that there is a market for it, there are companies using left over wood scraps from construction sites as their feedstock. Bad biochar can actually do soil more harm than good – so it is important to know the contents of your char.
    Once you have your biochar – you need to charge it. There are no nutrients inherent to the biochar, so the most common way to charge biochar is to combine the char with compost in a 50:50 ratio. You can add the char to the compost in the early stages of the compost and let it go through the process of composting. You can also mix it with finished compost and let it sit for about 2 weeks – this process is referred to as “weathering the char”. Compost is great but the benefits only last so long, the idea with biochar is that it absorbs the nutrients and makes them available to the plants for a much longer period of time. When you are ready to apply it to the soil, you can just add it by hand and mix it with the topsoil. Application rates range from between 1-10 tons per acre depending on your soil needs.    

    There is still a lot of research to be done in this field to determine the lasting benefits of biochar. But there are certainly a lot of exciting prospects and research projects being done. One farmer at the conference brought his own biochar to give out to fellow farmers as long as they promised to report back their experience with the char. The community of biochar users is still relatively small and there remains a need for more information on the use of biochar on small and large scales. I am happy to report that we have a bag of this precious biochar to experiment with this season at the farm. We will continue to report on our findings and hopefully will have some record yields!  

 Voila! Biochar created!

Organic Yuletide: The No Pesticide Tree

In maintaining a pesticide-free body, a logical extension would be a chemical-free abode.  While it has become quite easy to do that with cleaning products, fabrics and other materials, I have found it extremely difficult to find an organically grown Christmas tree each season.  Even amidst the Hudson Valley where organic or certified naturally grown food from the small farm has become easier to find, Christmas trees grown without pesticides are a rare find.  Most people don't realize that keeping a tree or other holiday greenery in the home can be potentially hazardous.  Holiday greenery is commonly sprayed with over 25 different pesticides known to be dangerous to either the environment or human health. 

This year's web search was successful.  In Dutchess County in the town of Red Hook, New York we found Benner Tree Farm owned by Bernadette Knopfli which she maintains as a side business with the help of her 3 children and 1 year old blue Doberman Max.  Though not organically certified, no pesticides whatsoever are used in killing weeds or in preventing various diseases or predators (deer and insect) from attacking the trees.  Her six acre property grows Colorado blue spruce, White fir, Douglas fir and White spruce trees of different sizes and shapes.  You pick the tree and cut it down yourself ensuring that you have the freshest, longest lasting tree. Bernadette tells us that she plants anywhere from 500-1000 saplings each spring. 

We chose a 7 foot Colorado blue spruce which took six years to grow.  This year's rains were actually beneficial to the growth of these trees even though neighboring food farms suffered, spruce trees instead suffer from droughts.  

Much of the work during the year is cutting the grass around the trees constantly and Bernadette is entertaining the idea of keep a resident goat to do the work while fertilizing the trees but the big question is, do goats eat the trees?

Our chosen Colorado Blue Spruce Charlie cut himself finds a home at Hook Mountain Growers Wherever you live, we hope you do a little investigating on your own and support any number of farms that may grow either organically or without the use of pesticides.  Not only will it benefit you and your family's health, but a local organic tree is beneficial to the environment and the local economy.

Visit Benner Tree Farm and enjoy some hot apple cider from Mignorelli Farm with Bernadette and Max at 179 Benner Road, Red Hook, NY 12571.

Phone: 845-835-8220. Alternate Phone: 914-466-5722. Open: Saturday and Sundays from 9am to 5pm

What Survives After a Freak Snow Storm in October?

The lamenting continues about how this season was one of the worst growing seasons in Northeast coast memory.  Yes, the incessant flooding rains, then hurricane Irene in September and last weekend, we had 10-12" of snow before Halloween.  What's next?  Doesn't quite matter since the damage is done.  We've typically harvested until the end of November.  Thanks to our buddies at Nazunya Designs we were able to have our high tunnel up and operational 16 hours before the storm hit. The high tunnel protects our 4 main beds that will enable us to grow our lettuces, mustard greens and kale though the fall and early winter. However,  looking outside of that tunnel, not a lot has survived...except: our gorgeous leeks, parsley, cilantro, fennel and some bok choy that happened to be under a fabric cover and rebounded once the snow melted.  Other things that are salvagable are some root veggies.  Though the green tops of our turnips, beets and celeriac have been hit, the roots are stable enough to harvest.  My saddest loss was the rainbow swiss chard.  A true trooper of a vegetable that has fed us and our neighbors from late spring to just before the snow storm.  Thankfully, I blanched and froze 15 lbs of it this summer.

LEEKS:

A few years ago we left some leeks outside to overwinter without mulching or protection and surprisingly once the ground thawed, we were able to enjoy them well into mid spring.  Anytime storage can happen without jars and outside of the freezer is a nice plus.  Less work.  Once a staple vegetable in Europe, leeks are enjoying a "comeback" in the culinary world.  They can be used in place of onions although they are more pungent.  As part of the allium family (garlic, onions, chives, scallions), leeks have not been as rigorously studied as garlic in the medical studies.  However, because of the similarity of compounds, one can extrapolate the health benefits found in its relatives nutritional profile.  Leeks are high in manganese, folic acid, vitamins C and B6.  This year in a meta-analysis published in the journal Gastroenterolgy, it was found that large consumption of allium vegetables reduced the risk for gastric cancer.  To reduce the risk, one would need to consume 20 grams per day or the equivalent of a head of garlic.  That's really not much at all.  That study looked at prevention of disease but there are many non-clinical studies that support the organosulfur constituents in garlic have activity against certain cancerous cells.  That means treatment not just prevention.

LEEK TIPS:

When I was a cooking novice, I used to follow recipe instructions like a chemistry textbook.  I would literally use just the white parts of the leeks and discard the rest.  Now I know better!

1. Use leeks from the white to the pale green portion.  The dark green tops can be used to flavor stocks but tend to be more cabbage-like rather than onion-like in flavor.

2. Buy leeks with some of their tops on, if you can.  The tops will indicate how fresh your leeks are.

3. Don't stress about washing leeks.  The way they are grown cause grit and dirt to accumulate between some of the leaf layers.  Instead of some suggestions that tell you to soak the vegetable in water to loose the dirt, I just chop up what I need, place it in a colander and rinse.

 Just chop and rinse

RECIPE: Creamy Leek Soup

This soup is best made 1-3 days ahead so that the flavors can develop.  It can be also frozen (just don't add the cream) and reheated on a lazy winter's night.  Serve with some crusty bread and a head of roasted garlic to increase your allium intake!

• Leeks 3 pounds, trimmed and chopped, using white and pale green parts only
• 1 medium onion, chopped
• 1 large carrot, chopped
• 1 small celeriac root plus tops OR 2 celery ribs
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1/2 teaspoon black pepper
• 1 stick (1/2 cup) unsalted butter
• 1 small boiling potato (6 ounces)
• 1/2 cup dry white wine
• 3 cups chicken stock or vegetable stock
• 3 cups water
• 1 bay leaf
• 1 1/2 cups fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves
• 1/4 cup all-purpose flour**
• 1/2 cup creme fraiche

To make gluten free, omit the instructions for roux (butter and flour) and add an additional large potato instead.

The beautiful thing when you grow food is to realize how much of what you've grown is going into the pot of food you're cooking. Either from the ground or from storage everything in this colander including the yellow carrots, celeriac and celeriac tops, to the leeks are all grown here. The rest of the recipe we provided the potatoes, parsley and even a fresh bay leaf! Rewards indeed.

Instructions:

Wash sliced leeks in a large bowl of cold water, agitating them, then lift out and drain well in a colander.

Cook leeks, onion, carrot, celery, salt, and pepper in 4 tablespoons butter in a 5- to 6-quart heavy pot over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 8 minutes. Peel potato and cut into 1/2-inch cubes, then add to onion mixture along with wine, stock, water, and bay leaf. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer, partially covered, until vegetables are tender, about 15 minutes.

Stir in parsley and simmer soup, uncovered, 5 minutes. Discard bay leaf and keep soup at a bare simmer.

Melt remaining 4 tablespoons butter in a 1-quart heavy saucepan over moderate heat, then add flour and cook roux, whisking, until golden, about 3 minutes. Remove from heat and add 2 cups simmering stock (from soup), whisking vigorously (mixture will be thick), then whisk mixture into remaining soup and return to a simmer, whisking.

If you have time, let the soup cool then blend it depending on the consistency you like.  I find a immersion hand blender works beautifully without all the mess.  Reheat soup, then season with salt and pepper.

Serve soup topped with a large dollop of cream fraiche.

Adapted from Gourmet Magazine May 2007

Farmers Markets: Hawaiian Style

A flower from the ginger familyOur usual vacation every year takes place in October after we've done the majority of harvesting.  This year we went all out and travelled to the Hawaiian island of Kaua'i.  Being the farmers that we are, instead of heading for the sandy beaches and the crashing waves, we took to touring organic farms, botanical gardens and hitting the many farmers markets that occur sometimes up to 5 locations in one day.  Amazing considering the island is only 33 x 25 miles with a population of 60,000.  We were most fascinated at the opposite spectrum of growing conditions compared with the Hudson Valley.  With the rich volcanic soil, sunshine predominent days and abundant rainfall, we assumed Hawaii offered the perfect growing conditions for most crops.  Indeed we learned that was not so.  Our first farmers market was on the north end of the island in lush Hanalei where the emerald landscapes are dotted with multiple waterfalls in nearby mountains.  This was probably one of the nicest markets we've ever been to.  Every stand offered produce only organically grown and the variety of tropical fruits, something we rarely eat, became an obsession for us.

Is this not the most exotic and beautiful fruit?

Young and mature coconuts were expertly cracked on the spot for hydration and then brought back to the same vendor to be hacked open to enjoy the white coconut meat.

When we spoke with a woman selling her seedlings about how fabulous is must be to grow there, she told us that she was jealous of us!  In the Hudson Valley, we could grow so much more food than farms on Kauai citing the 15 different fruit flies alone that devastate crops on the island.  In fact, you think Hawaii would be able to grow the most luscious tomatoes with all that sun and heat but large tomatoes are hard to come by because of insect damage and high humidity.  Cherry tomatoes are what farmers mostly grow there!

Star Fruit: A favorite fruit of the island for us.

Drunk on passion fruit (lillikoi), soursop, and longon fruits, we looked forward to our tours at an organic chocolate farm complete with chocolate tasting, and an organic goat farm.  Stay tuned for more tropicalia.

Considering Heritage Turkeys for the Thanksgiving Table

Each Thanksgiving, 45 million turkeys are cooked and eaten.  Chances are, the turkey that you will be enjoying on Thanksgiving is a typical white broad-breasted turkey bred to develop as large a percentage of white meat in as little time as possible.  Large scale agriculture is all about profit: raising animals having the largest volume of meat in the shortest amount of time. Usually there is little to no consideration on the quality and taste of the product.  Only recently have sustainable agriculture advocates and preservationists been able to bring awareness of heritage breeds to the table...literally.  Heritage breeds are what we ate before the push to raise animals quickly and cheaply became mainstream.  According to Patrick Martins, founder of Heritage Breeds USA in Brooklyn New York, “the heritage breed reflects man’s best attempt at a good tasting turkey.  The white broad-breasted represents man’s attempt to produce a turkey that lives indoors and grows quickly.”  

Many people may be disturbed to know that their broad breasted turkeys cannot reproduce on their own without the help of artificial insemination.  Their body shape prevents this from occurring naturally and because they gain so much weight so quickly, oftentimes, these birds, if left to grow older, would not be able to walk or stand as their legs would be unable to support their own body weight.  With many more people questioning where their food comes from and how it was raised, the door has been opened for heritage breed turkeys to make a comeback.  With names like Bourbon Red, Narragansett, Jersey Buff, Slate, Black Spanish and White Holland, these old-time turkeys have a distinctive rich taste, more dark meat and certainly more flavor.


Purchasing these breeds sometimes costs twice that of a pasture-raised broad breasted turkey and there is a good reason for that.  While the standard turkey takes 18 weeks to reach market size, heritage turkeys take 24-30 weeks.  Not only is it more costly to raise them but they are more time-consuming as well.  Because they have more of the instincts of the wild turkey, they want to fly unlike their sedentary and weighted cousins.  Still, even with the high costs to the consumer, farmers barely profit from selling these birds.  Burgeoning consumer demand for these breeds are being met by some small farms.  Heritage Breeds USA sold approximately 800 heritage turkeys in 2002 and are expecting to sell about 8000-10000 by mail order this season.  If you are looking for local resources, places where you can actually visit and see your heritage turkeys develop, grow and lead a happy existence (for at least a few months), you have only three choices.  Stone Barns in Pocantico Hills raises Bourban Red turkeys that sell out quickly, usually to membership holders.  Upstate in Germantown, New York, Peter Davies at Turkana Farms raise Bourbon Reds, Spanish Blacks, Royal Palms and Narragansetts, slaughtered three days before Thanksgiving and delivered to NYC or to be picked up at the farm. “There’s a difference in taste with heritage turkeys because it takes longer to reach market size and they get lots of exercise” states Mr Davies who also obtains organic grains to feed his birds from the nearby Lighting Tree Farm in Millbrook.  Heritage turkeys are so succulent that there is no need for brining and you cook them like any other turkey.  This rare commodity in the Hudson Valley usually sells out locally by October, however, you can purchase them from Heritage Breeds USA which obtains their turkeys from two farms in the midwest.

Heritage meats can still be enjoyed beyond the Thanksgiving table.  Peter Davies states that the Christmas goose, an Old World tradition, is also becoming a popular choice. It has the texture and consistency of beef rather than poultry and cooks just like a turkey.  Turkana farms offers a Toulouse Geese available for Christmas and offers wonderful recipes on cooking your bird.  We plan on making a Christmas goose again this season.  Don't forget to collect the "liquid gold" or goose fat to use in the coming months.  Sublime when eggs or potatoes are cooked with it!